Our next destination on our whirlwind European adventure was the picturesque city of Ghent, in the heart of Belgium. Jeremy had ridden his bike through this city on his Amsterdam to Paris cycling trip 5 years earlier, and wanted to revisit with the family.

Ghent has stunning medieval architecture and a rich tapestry of history. We enjoyed the towers, churches, and waffles in this nice Belgian gem.

The Drive from Luxembourg to Ghent

Our drive from Luxembourg City to Ghent was about 3 hours, mostly through Belgian countryside. We’d originally planned to go to Strasbourg, but with some riots going on in that city in the summer of 2023, we changed our plans, which was easy with the car. On the way in, we stopped at fairly nice highway rest stop for lunch.

Arrival At Our Hotel

As we drove into the city, we started noticing the abundant ornate medieval buildings, setting the tone for the time ahead. This is the Royal Dutch Theatre.

We checked into our hotel and were pleasantly surprised to find our room more spacious than expected. Our teenagers, especially, were thrilled to discover their loft/attic area, a perfect hideaway during our stay. When traveling with kids, having a bit of personal space is always a welcomed bonus!

Additional Reading: Traveling with Kids: Pros and Cons at each Age

St. Bavo’s Cathedral

On our way out of the hotel, our first destination was the St. Bavo’s Cathedral (St. Baafs Cathedral).

This Gothic structure, with large spires, intricate stained glass windows, and a beautiful stone façade, immediately captivated our senses. With a history spanning centuries, the cathedral serves as an emblem of Ghent’s rich heritage. Its construction commenced in the 14th century, and is named after Saint Bavo, a 7th-century Flemish nobleman who became a Christian missionary.

The cathedral is renowned for housing several important works of art. One of the most famous pieces is “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” (also known as the Ghent Altarpiece), painted by the Van Eyck brothers, Jan and Hubert. This masterpiece is considered one of the most important paintings in Western art history.

Belfry Tower

On our way out, we decided to take the elevator to the top of the Belfry Tower, which is very close to the cathedral.

The Belfry Tower offered a great panoramic view of Ghent. We saw the city’s intricate network of canals, historic buildings, and picturesque squares.

After enjoying the views, we descended via the stairs, an exciting end to our cathedral adventure.

A City Walk

From here, we simply took in the city’s ambiance with a leisurely stroll along the charming canals.

At one point we stopped for some Belgium Waffles!

St. Michelskerk

Our exploration continued with a visit to St. Michelskerk, a church with its own intriguing history. This slightly lesser-known gem in Ghent began construction in the 12th century and contains a fascinating blend of architectural styles, including Romanesque and Gothic elements.

Inside St. Michelskerk, we encountered a remarkable organ, and our visit included a fascinating organ demonstration that explained many of the intricacies of this amazing instrument.

As we continued our self-guided tour and reached the area near the baptistry, the talkative organist took us by surprise, and continued with a talk about baptism. Eventually, he dove into a somewhat unexpected topic – circumcision. His enthusiastic storytelling led him into slightly embarrassing territories, but it provided us with a unique and memorable lesson!

The Castle of the Counts

The Castle of the Counts, also known as Gravensteen, was next on our list, a place that oozed with charm and history. It was a must-visit for anyone coming to the city.

Gravensteen was constructed in the late 12th century by Count Philip of Alsace and was initially used as the residence of the Counts of Flanders, thus the name “Castle of the Counts”. Eventually, the castle fell into disrepair but was later restored in the 19th century.

Featuring high stone walls, a moat, and a central keep, this castle is a great example of medieval European fortification architecture. The interior of the castle includes a courtyard and various chambers, which provide insights into the daily life and activities within the castle during its historical use.

From the top of Gravensteen, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of Ghent, offering a unique perspective on the city and its surrounding landscape.

Shopping and a Cafe

We then headed towards the Veldstraat and Langemunt shopping areas, which were bustling with activity.

At some point, we stopped for coffee, taking in the vibrant atmosphere.

St. James Church

Eventually, we decided to head back to our hotel for a rest, popping into St. James Church on the way. Just like many of the other churches in this city, construction began in the 12th century and was originally built in the Romanesque style, but was later reconstructed in the Gothic style.

An interesting historical fact is that St. James Church church is closely associated with the St. James’ Guild, which played a significant role in the life of the city. St. James Church was an important stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. It served as a place of rest and worship for pilgrims traveling to the famous shrine of St. James.

As the evening set in, fatigue caught up with me. Sometimes traveling with teens can be quite exhausting.

A Liege Waffle Dinner

But a day like this in Ghent demanded a sweet ending. We ventured out for dinner and indulged in another round of waffles. The waffles seemed to come in two varieties: Belgium and Liege. While the Belgium waffles are delicious, the Liege waffles are made with pearl sugar that creates a delightful gooey sauce. I definitely preferred those!

Note that upon our arrival at home, we ordered some pearl sugar and tried to make these at home. Unfortunately, our waffle iron was too hot, so by the time the waffle was done, the pearl sugar had burned and I had to spend way too much time trying to clean the blackened mess. Some things are best left as a treat only to be experienced while traveling.

Our Hotel

We strolled through the city once more before retiring to our hotel. Tired and content, it took me a while to figure out how to get hot water for my shower. Travel always has its quirks, but that’s part of the adventure.

The hotel breakfast was mostly reasonable. The croissants were fine, and there were hard-boiled eggs. But, it also didn’t match some of the over-the-top European hotel breakfasts we’d had, or the amazing pastries we had just experienced in Luxembourg. Still much better than the typical American hotel breakfasts.

Fortunately, the central location of the hotel more than made up for these little quibbles.

Friday Market

On the advice of our hotel receptionist, we decided to take a quick walk to the Friday market around the corner, hoping for a hidden gem, but it turned out to be a rather ordinary affair.

With our bags packed and plenty of memories, we set out for Cologne, the final destination of our trip.

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